Average Reviews:
(More customer reviews)I have a few of these and I really put them to the test.
I also have other, larger pruning saws, but these small saws are very handy.
When properly cared for (oiled to prevent rust, sap/pitch removed) they last for a long time.
I can cut through a 6" Oak branch with one of these in minutes. Keep it sharp, develop the arm/shoulder strength and coordination, and you will be surprised-perhaps amazed-at what you can do with this implement.
My experiences and perspectives seem to be rather different than the previous poster. I disagree in regards to the blade shape, thickness, and coarseness.
SHAPE
The curved blade is, in my opinion, a good design. I also have saws from Fanno (another maker of quality pruning eqpt.) and they are all curved. In fact, all my common pruning saws, from 13-24" have curved blades.
I have a large timber saw (think 3'long 1man version of the traditional 6' two man "misery whip") and a folding saw with straight blades, but these are the minority. The short, straight saw is very useful when pruning the unwanted branch or trunk from a "Y" or double trunk, but that is about all I use it for. The timber saw is used much like a bucksaw and the straight blade is fine for that purpose.
The curved blade serves two purposes. 1 It helps you maintain a straight line around the branch. I am sometimes in an awkward position, straining, and/or exerting strenuously when pruning. The curved blade wraps, to some extent, around the blade and helps maintain a straight cutting line.
A straight cut isn't terribly important when making the initial cuts on a large branch (1st cut removes weight from branch), but is very important for the final cut. The final pruning cut should be straight and consistent-just outside the branch collar.
2. It grabs the branch on the pull stroke and helps cut more effectively. With a straight blade, the saw would, to an extent, ride on the branch. With the curvature, the blade digs in.
My long pole saw also has a curved blade. I rely on the curved blade particularly with a pole saw-it greatly increases the effectiveness. The curved tip also helps me grab onto a branch to dislodge it if it falls into a crotch or other difficult location. I can't envision doing all my pruning with straight blades.
THICKNESS
I don't find the blade to be too thick. A pruning saw is subjected to much rougher treatment than a woodworking saw. While a thinner blade would cut faster, it would also be prone to damage. I keep my saws very sharp and they cut well. I don't recall ever thinking; "Hmmm, if this blade were thinner I would be through this branch already..." More like; "I enjoy using this saw, it is an extension of my body and has never failed me..."
COARSENESS (# teeth per inch)
The number of teeth per inch are also suitable. Yes, a crosscut saw for woodworking would have fewer teeth per inch. Woodworking pieces need finer edges for appearance, joinery, etc. That isn't a concern with pruning. As long as one doesn't tear out a large piece of bark, all is well. I also think that the wet, pulpy nature of living wood would clog a finer pattern.
It feels very good to cut branches with hand tools-chainsaws are noisy, foul-smelling beasts.
I also use this saw for rough cutting of 2x4 and 2x6 lumber.
Click Here to see more reviews about: Corona Clipper RS 7120 13-Inch Razor Tooth Curved Pruning Saw with Cushion Grip Handle
The Corona Clipper razor tooth pruning saw features a 13-inch curved blade designed for cleaner and faster cutting of medium to large branches, sawing through green or dry wood with ease. The curved design puts more teeth into the branch for faster cutting, giving you a 10-inch blade cut on the pull stroke. The blade is made of a tempered steel alloy to reduce friction and resist rust; the whetstone-ground, impulse-hardened razor teeth are sharpened on 3 sides to plane through wood twice as fast as conventional teeth. The pistol-grip handle with cushion covering is built for comfort and control.
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